Where to go...
Cusco
This was the capital of the Inca Empire, The Tahuantinsuyo ("tahua" means
four; "suyos" means provinces). It is at 11,254 feet over sea level and is also
called the Sacred City of the Incas. It is 690 miles southeast of Lima, only an
hour away by air with 357 air-miles, but almost two days by car. Cusco has
plenty to see, this city has a unique architecture, history, people, and
location. Cusco is the starting point for trekking and other activities. The
Madre de Dios jungle and the Manu National Reserve can be reached by air through
Puerto Maldonado or through Tambopata in Puno. Rafting the Vilcanota and
Apurimac river, taking the train to Machu Picchu or trekking through the Inca
Trail are some of the many activities there are, starting from Cusco.
Inca Trail to Machu Picchu
The most popular route of the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu is from
Ollantaytambo. You can reach Ollantaytambo, the
impressive Inca fortress citadel and town, by bus, train or taxi. There are only railroad tracks from
there on, at the edge of the Vilcanota (or Urubamba) river. The trail starts
across the river from Ollanta and climbs the mountain chain towards the north,
following high up over the river. You will see incredible views towards the
opposite mountain chain of peaks such as Veronica and others. This hike will
take two or three days and makes an impressive down-hill arrival to the Machu
Picchu citadel. Along the way there are many other Inca structures that because
of the hard terrain and being reachable only through the trail, have not been
fully uncovered from the thick vegetation.
Detailed
Description of the Inca Trail to MachuPicchu
Choqequirao
Choqequirao is a more adventurous destination. It was never found by the
spanish conquistadores and still today it is visited only by very few because of
its difficult trail. Choqequirao was an Inca citadel and is located on top of a
mountain with strategic view to the Apurimac river and canyon. A micro-climate
in the Choqequirao slope generates a dense rain forest that covered the
citadel's long and wide "andenes" (terraces) and buildings with thick
vegetation. Meanwhile, new andenes have been uncovered. Notice the vicunas laid out with white stone. Forest clearing and architectural reconstruction is still in progress. --- The only way to get there is by foot on a trail taking about one and a half walk.
See this recent article written by
Ethan Todras-Whitehill and published
in the New York Times.
To Cachora, closest town to Choqequirao
Buses leave daily to Curahuasi, from Cusco. Curahuasi is the closest big town
towards Cachora (2,800 mts. o.s.l. - province of Abancay). A detour from the
main road, of Curahuasi to Abancay, goes down the hill to Cachora.
Trail to Choqequirau
The trail to Choqequirau starts in the town of Cachora (lower left
side of photo at right). Arrieros (muleteers) offer their service to carry
backpacks and camp equipment on thier mules, donkeys or horses for the
hike up to Choqequirau.
This walk has spectacular views from
beginning to end. It starts bordering the two hills on the left of the
photo, and continues forward towards the nevados of Sacsarayoc before
heading down towards the Apurimac river. |
The trail continues downhill towards the white waters of the Apurimac
river. First night camp can be right before the downhill wal, especially
if late in the afternoon. Otherwise, if early afternoon or still morning,
an oasis with fresh water spring half way down the river is a good place
to camp or have lunch.
Town of Cachora - View towards the Apurimac
Canyon
Map of Trail
Map of Vilcabamba Area
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A bath before starting the hard climb is a good idea. Gigantic rocks at
the river are good picnic and bathing spots.
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The new bridge, "Pasarela Rosalina" (1,460 mts. o.s.l.) stands in
parallel to the old "oroya" (cable tram), now obsoleted by this 4 year old
mini Golden Gate bridge (4 ton max). After crossing the bridge, a steep
climb begins out of the canyon and continues ascending towards
Choquequirao located at 3,033 mts. over sea level.
Pasarela Rosalina over the Apurimac
river |
Callejon De Huaylas, Huaraz
Northeast of Lima, about 180 miles, the Andes mountain range is divided into
two branches: to the west the Cordillera Negra, not as high as the other
one and without snow. To the east the Cordillera Blanca has around 35
peaks with snow and glaciers. Its tallest peak, the Huascaran stands at
22,206 feet over sea level. Between the peaks there are lakes (cochas) and rocks
at the foot of eternal ice, where many rivers are born. These become tributaries
of the Rio Santa. There are ten snow-free passes that join the Pacific
and Amazonian watersheds across the Cordillera Blanca. These trails can be
combined and walked around the tall peaks to return through a different pass
over the valley of the Santa. Yungay and Caraz are good starting points. These
towns are north of Huaraz, down the rio Santa. Guides (arrieros) with horses to
carry backpacks and equipment can be hired in these towns or in Huaraz.
Santa River
(Starts at the Conococha Lake, 13,780 ft. high and is 210 miles long) The
Santa river flows from south to north between the two mountain ranges, through
the fertile "Callejon" (alley, narrow pass) which is about 120 miles long and 5
miles wide in some stretches. Its white waters flow north until both
cordilleras, the Blanca and Negra come together as if they intended to block the
passage of the river. But the river found its way through by means of a gorge
from which it falls. This is the Caņon del Pato (Duck's Canyon), where
the river changes direction after an even steeper change in altitude, and after
having traveled 200 miles from its origin. The new direction is west, where it
ends in the Pacific Ocean at the Port of Chimbote.
Maps of the Callejon
de Huaylas
More on the Callejon
de Huaylas
Caņon Del Colca, Arequipa
Rafting the Colca river has become more popular during the last few years.
Local agencies from the Arequipa area specialize in this activity and provide
guides, rafts and safety equipment. The Colca river is rated 5 and it is
extremely wild during the rain season, from January through March.
The Colca valley has a deep canyon carved by the Colca river. The Colca
Canyon is behind Arequipa's mountain and volcano chain. The Misti, Chachani,
Ampato and Sabancaya form a dormant but active volcano chain with scpectacular
views from Arequipa's dry and clear atmosphere. The Colca canyon is more than
100 kilometers long and its deepest point is 3,400 meters (11,155 feet) from the
observation point. The Colca Valley is also called "El Valle de los
Condores" where large Condors hatch and frecuently fly down to the Pacific
ocean. The valley is also home of Vicunas, Alpacas and Llamas. Also, the
Colca area has been a habitat of the early man in the Americas where
pre-historic traces such as cave paintings and drawings on rocks have been found
in many sites. The towns and folks on the margins or edges of the valley have
customs and colorful clothings original from the Colca and very different than
other areas in Peru.
Colca Map (57KB)
Animation
of the Misti volcano and the city of Arequipa, by NASA (QuickTime format
- download player)
Cotahuasi Canyon - Deepest
Canyon on Earth (Flash viewer required - 0.6MB)
Vilcabamba (Espiritu Pampa), Cusco
Currently, you will hear about three Vilcabambas, the town of Vilcabamba, Vilcabamba La Nueva (Inca
ruins of Vitcos) and Vilcabamba La Vieja or Espiritu Pampa, the last refuge
of the Incas. Hiram Bingham writes an account of his exploration of the ruins
of Espiritu Pampa. He gives a short background that while visiting a man in
Peru in 1911, he learned of a local prospector named Lopez Torres who had discovered
some Incan ruins in 1902. Unfortunately, Torres had died by this time, so according to his account, the
author had to find his own way to the hidden ruins.
If you pick the long -and more interesting- hike, you will start in the town of
Huancacalle and end up in Chihuanquiri. You will need a ride from Cusco to Ollantaytambo
(1.5 hours) and then from Ollanta to Huancacalle through Paso Malaga. This road
has landslides during rain season (Nov through March), so check before you
go.
More about the hike soon (Vitcos, Nusta Ispana, Rio Pampaconas, Vista Alegre,
Concevidayoc, Espiritu, etc.)
Detailed map of Vilcabamba hike (6 days)
(Flash viewer required)
